David Hooper (biology 1995) has been with Cave Springs since the fall harvest of 1998. Upon graduating from University of Waterloo with a student debt and not a clue of what he wanted to do except return to the Niagara region he had always called home, Dave looked to his biology courses in fermentation biotechnology and food microbiology for inspiration. He soon signed on at Henry of Pelham Estates, hired by a University of Waterloo graduate no less, and found himself with a significant leg up as Dave was one of the few workers with a science background. He soon moved on to Cave Springs and has cemented himself as the right hand of the wine maker, responsible for the daily management and operations of the winery itself.
The Asian lady-beetle and the swarm that descended upon southern Ontario in 2001 decimating that year's wine crop is one of only a multitude of concerns that Dave deals with on a seasonal basis. After spending a good portion of my day following him around the winery, asking question after question about the process of making a great wine, I definitely have a new appreciation for the complexity of the industry and the factors that contribute the evolution of a great drink.
My day with Dave or "Hoop" started out simply enough, sitting in the wine maker's office amongst the myriad of historic bottles from the days when Cave Springs was a small operation known as Jordan Winery back in the late 1800's. He patiently explained the entire process from growing the different types of grapes to sipping the final product at your dinner table. We discussed the benefits of being a VQA certified wine, the appeal of celebrity designer wines, the winery boom of 1998-2000, and the tragedy of grape crops exploding after the rains of Hurricane Katrina barrelled through the region. "It was a huge mess," he recalls sombrely "it was a fairly dry year til that point. The grapes were tight. The sudden surge of rain was too much for the grapes to take and they exploded right on the vines and rotted."
After listening to Dave, I'm convinced small talk at my mother's house at Christmas will never be the same; I know all about the stop fermentation process of a Riesling to why cabernet crops yield a better wine if the summer is hot. I enjoyed my mini seminar so much that I'd like to share a few fun facts of the wine world Dave sent our way:
- Ontario is one of the biggest producers of ice wine in the world
- It takes 3-4 years for any planted crop to produce fruit
- Temperatures of -25 will kill the vines
- VQA wines are 100% grown and controlled in Canada. Cellared in Canada wines can be up to 70% foreign content
- One ladybug can ruin 20L of grape juice
- Corkiness in wine is the number 1 problem in industry (if the wine tastes off, take it back... its corked!)
- Screw caps are perfect for wines that don't need to age
- A great wine doesn't have to be expensive
- Red wine gets its colour from the grape skins
- Canadian wine is becoming recognized globally ... so tour the vineyards and get sampling!
During the tour of the barrel storage rooms, the corking room and the lovely reception facilities of Cave Springs, Dave discussed his job, graduates he sees today and what the future holds for the wine industry. As an online course instructor of Cellar Operations & Technology at Niagara College, his perception of what the next generation of wine makers are going through is a unique one. "We're not doctors here. We make booze. Good booze, sure, but we're not saving lives. It can get stressful at times, but if you can't have fun and enjoy the job, what's the point?"
As the tour of the winery ends at the wine-tasting bar of the boutique store, Dave pours us a few samples as he discusses his wife and three daughters... a 3 year old and infant twins. I nod to his co-op student wearing a "Cave Girl" T-shirt as she stocks shelves, thoroughly enjoying the pale 2007 Riesling... sweetened by the stop fermentation process. I twirl the estate bottled 2006 Chardonnay around, letting the esters break over my tongue as I breathe in the air during the sampling. I smile as I swill the 2005 cab merlot around my mouth for it was true that 2005 was a fine summer and the grapes certainly reflect that in the colour and bouquet.
Do I know what I'm talking about? No, not really. But I know what tastes good on my own tongue. And according to Dave, trying out different wines is the only way you'll find out what you like. "Don't let a trendy magazine, celebrity or your mother pick out your wines," he advises, "Come on out and try something new. Grab a bottle, grab a seat and try a bunch."
Good advice. Wine anyone?