In today’s edition of the blog, David and Ben bring us six “Amman anecdotes” highlighting their day-to-day experiences in the city. From indulging in street food to navigating Amman’s streets, get ready for a few insights into our trip.
Coffee
Coffee is unique in Jordan. Cardamom is added to the beans, giving it a very unique flavour that was brand new to my taste buds (which usually enjoy the fine flavour of coffee roasted by my local artisanal roaster – Tim Horton). My first coffee was very kindly bought for me by the taxi driver who drove me from the airport to the hotel. I almost couldn’t finish it, and I love coffee! It was very cardamomy. My second coffee was an iced coffee from a can, and I almost couldn’t finish that one too. However, there are varying levels of cardamom in coffee here, and it turns out that the cardamom eventually grows on you, and now I’m starting to enjoy it (when it’s not super strong). I’ll probably even miss it when I leave Jordan and will forever associate the smell and taste of cardamom with my wonderful travel memories.
Mmmmmm a fresh cup of coffee!
Jaywalking
Jaywalking seems to not only be a national hobby, but also an extreme sport. The street near our hotel is traffic two and a half lanes in each direction (actually two, but two and a half makes more sense because lane markings here seem more like suggestions) with no stop lights for a very long distance and cars travelling very fast. Fortunately, there is a median in the middle. After careful observation of the locals and risky-but-worth-it practice, the jaywalking skill has been partially mastered by us Canadians. Here is how to jaywalk in Jordan (and get to the destination across the street without walking an extra 15 minutes to find a working crosswalk):
- Stand by the side of the road waiting for your opportunity. During this time you will have many taxis honk at you. I’m guessing that they are wondering why someone would cross the street when they could take a taxi? Why did the chicken cross the road? Obviously he didn’t, he took a taxi. If one doesn’t look like a local (I guess I don’t, despite my impressive jaywalking skills), people might just honk and say “hello” or “welcome”. Jordanians are incredibly friendly and welcoming.
- When you see a gap in the first lane large enough that a car won’t need to slam on their breaks to not hit you, nonchalantly and confidently walk into the first lane. In slower traffic you can even weave between cars. Skills.
- To cross the second lane, either wait until the cars pass and a break forms in that lane (by this point there may be cars very patiently waiting for you in the first) or if they are not speeding and are at a reasonable distance, just walk with the knowledge that they are extremely aware drivers and will stop.
- Step on the median. Repeat.
Needless to say, this becomes a stressful but very adrenaline-filling part of one’s day. It keeps one on their toes and grateful for another day of life.
Looks like a challenge to me! Upgraded to Frogger lever two.
Roman Orthodox Easter
One of the highlights for a few of us was going to an 11 p.m. Holy Saturday/Easter service at a beautiful Roman Orthodox church (the Eastern church observes Easter on a different day than the Western church). Professor Khirfan has some friends who are a part of this church. They asked if any of us would be interested in attending with them part of the service (it lasted until 2:30 a.m., so we did not stay until the end). Four of us, along with Professor Khirfan, took them up on the offer. It was an incredibly moving and celebratory event. It started in the sanctuary, and then moved outside, and then eventually back into the sanctuary. From the intricately painted sanctuary to the stirring songs and chants to the smells of incense to the tightness of squeezing into the sanctuary among throngs of excited worshippers to eating fresh-baked bread just outside of the sanctuary, it was truly a memorable occasion!
Most of the worshippers watched the outdoor portion from where this shot is taken from – the courtyard outside the church.
Sidewalks
While David covered the art and science of getting across Amman’s roads, what happens when you get to the other side? Amman’s sidewalks are wildly inconsistent, and you can experience one or more of the following on the average walk:
- Beautiful, tree-lined sidewalks in Amman’s west end;
- Inconsistent zig-zagging routes along storefront parking lots and entries;
- Sidewalks that are hardly wider than you are;
- Staircases that help you ascend Amman’s many jebels (hills); or,
- No sidewalks at all – watch out for cars!
With each of the sidewalks above, you might encounter parked cars, street vendors, supply trucks, and any number of other obstacles. Better keep your head up and get ready to weave! In short, life as a pedestrian in Amman is an interesting contrast to the experience in many Canadian cities. While active transportation infrastructure may vary in its quality, it hasn’t been enough to stop our group from trekking through Amman’s eclectic streets.
Going up? One of the many sets of stairs bringing our team to new heights.
Alleyways
What do you think of when the word “alleyway” is used? While many of us picture trash bins, grime, and rain falling on a dark evening (possibly thanks to the Spiderman films), alleyways in Amman can be lively urban places. On a walk through the downtown, our group had the chance to experience alleyways that challenged our prior understanding of just what they could be. In a city where space is at a premium, certain alleyways have turned into bustling retail areas complete with shops, restaurants, and cafes. In one such alleyway, our group took part in our first kanafeh experience (which is worthy of its own blog post). Here, the kanafeh store opened into an alleyway connecting two streets, with the area filled with waiting patrons, vendors, and locals and tourists alike enjoying their snack. Do alleyways have to be places to avoid? Our experience in Amman might say otherwise.
One of the many bustling alleyways of Amman.
Shawarma and falafel
After a day of walking, it is no surprise that our team needs a quick snack to charge up with. Thankfully, Amman has us covered with two of its most delicious street foods: shawarma and falafel. At the risk of not doing justice to either, here’s a brief rundown of what you’re ordering. Shawarma is a meat, usually beef or chicken, that is roasted on a vertical spit and shaved off to order. The tender, flavourful meat is then typically served in a wrap complete with vegetables, such as pickles and lettuce, and a garlicky sauce. I give bonus points if the wrap is grilled on a flat top grill, in order to give the wrap a toasty exterior.
Falafel is a deep-fried ball made of a chickpea mixture, which is served hot either on its own or in a wrap. Get ready for the Canadian’s explanation: I’d liken it to a savoury Timbit (somewhere, a falafel cook is horrified). While the falafel itself is an unpretentiously tasty eat, I have been captivated each time with watching the chefs prepare each piece. From a large tray of the chickpea mix, the cook scoops up and forms the fritter before transferring it to a vat of hot oil. The speed at which this is done is incredible, and the entire process appears as one quick, easy movement. Minutes later, the falafel are pulled from the fryer, and you’re ready to enjoy!